Highs and lows, which I list in order of appearance.
The environment is not bad (7): a pleasant and quiet exterior, in a decent street (the hotel opposite is beautiful, it stands out compared to the monotonous mediocrity of the hotels on the Riviera); our table is well positioned, while others I see as too sacrificed, with little living space. The interior is decent and even welcoming, but there are service stations that are too visible and too close to the tables.
The service starts slowly: there isn't a full house, but it takes several minutes to set up the table chosen by us (the most comfortable, since there was a wide choice, although it had to be cleared and set again), so that out of three groups we are the first to arrive but the last to sit down and order. It's not a big problem because the waiting times for the dishes, longer than short, are similar for everyone. Ordering from the waiter is not idyllic, with implications tending to be embarrassing: the clams aren't there, we resort to another first course, but the drinking is the critical point. Wanting a quarter of house white wine, the waiter asks me if I want it still or sparkling, to my question «What is it» he replies «White wine»… Grotesque, right? I explain that I would like to know what wine it is, among the perhaps millions of whites on the market, and finally he gets to the point. Chardonnay. In Romagna I don't drink Chardonnay with Tarantina mussels; since I expect a lot of tomato, I fall back on a house red... daring to repeat the question, "What red is it?". He does not know. Bizarre, isn't it? He comes back documented and shoots me a «Toro Negro», or so: never heard of it, in my ignorance (I later discover that it is a Spanish wine... I will eventually drink it in Spain, not in Pinarella). I turn towards beer: there is only Moretti, which I like, so I ask for the 33 cl written on the menu... but it isn't there, there is only the 66. Go for the water. In short: a service that does what it can, with long but not at all dramatic times, yet with tragicomic drifts that don't do justice to the experience that should be there, but which given our quiet Sunday trip mood I can take with amused philosophy. 6 on serve.
I come to the food. Taranto-style mussels are almost legendary: I'm not a phenomenal connoisseur, I admit, but I really liked what I ate, excellent mussels, spicy at the right point, irresistible sauce with slipper before bread (not skimped and perfect for the need ), then with a fork and fingers. I repeat: perhaps a connoisseur would not share my opinion, but those Taranto-style mussels are 9+ for me. Much less enthusiasm for the tagliolini "with fish sauce": excellent and excellently cooked pasta (although I can't say if it's home-made: the tagliolini are very regular and identical to each other), but as for the fish sauce... it's a tuna sauce, at least 70%. Nothing against tuna, and there's no doubt that it's a fish, but there's not much else in this sauce, and since I'm not sure that the tuna doesn't come from a can, I actually ate a tagliolini with tuna like my grandmother made me (it was spaghetti) every Friday, in serial mode and without many frills, although good. This is also good (7), but I felt a little cheated, without drama. Overall I give an average 8+ to what I ate, too delighted by the mussels and bread to drown in the sauce.
Finally the bill. Cover charge 2 euros (below average, but right, it's those who put it at 3 that are annoying), water 2 and a half (ok), 2 euros for a small barley is too much. The mussels 16, the tagliolino 14: prices in line, even if there are still those who make you spend less, but it must be recognized that the portions are abundant, if not downright gargantuan: like the pan of mussels, but above all the tagliolino, which makes for two. For this reason I should give a rewarding rating, but I cannot help but consider that the fish sauce was tuna sauce, and I would lean towards a negligible production cost. Let's give it a 6.5 to also reward the moderation of the cover charge.
In summary: room 7; service 6; food 8+; prices 6.5. Resulting rating 7-.
Daniele Bini
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21 Gennaio 2024
6,0